Thanks again. We just got this trailer. By the Way, your fuses in your RV are for your 12-VDC circuits only, while your AC Breakers are for your AC Appliances and equipment. Check whether the fuse or breaker is tripped or not. Then, reset ALL of your breakers in your breaker panel, in case one is only partially kicked off. So, every few days, you must plug your camper into a 110-VAC source and recharge your COACH batteries. Before you start opening panels and messing around with electrical systems, in an RV or camper or at home, observe these warnings. Current can be calculated using the formula I = V/R, that is, current equals voltage divided by resistance. I’m sure the campground circuit is overloaded as I’m not getting the full 30 amps. A Coach battery that is not fully charged is the leading cause of interior lights not operating. Your roof AC units operate on 220-VAC but again you need to have that 12-Volt battery charged. If the furnace runs, but you aren’t getting any heat, check to see if the propane is turned on. And one more thing, your situation can be dangerous and does need to be resolved as soon as you can. Don thank you for replying. Truck Campers. I don't have one. Your Air Conditioner will age and eventually, it will draw several AMPS more current to start up and to run, so keep the air filter clean and you could even get up on the roof and clean the coils for better airflow. But if your AC breakers or fuses are going off, you can certainly investigate whether your appliances, singly or in combination, are drawing more AC power than you want them to. Proper maintenance helps prolong the useful years of your car. It just doesn't seem logical to run the wires for a flasher module far from the signal light lever switch. This power control panel requires that your 12-VDC be good to operate properly. Any ideas? Any ideas? If it functions OK, then I would turn the other breakers ON, one by one and see which one has a load on it that is enough to overload your travel trailers main breaker. My toaster won’t brown the toast, even after seven minutes, and my microwave takes four mins to heat a small coffee. Checked the 2 40 amp fuses and both are fine. If the tester illuminates when it should not (example: a phantom turn signal illuminating), it is a sign there might be a short in the tow vehicle wiring. No matter where you want to go, or what you want to tow, your Lance Truck Camper will take you there. Also, 1-disconect the RV and see if just having the cable connected works, then 2- turn OFF all of your AC-Viltage breakers, including the MAIN, and then try to run the gen with the RV connected. If you have a breaker that will not reset, then you either have a bad breaker, or you have something on that circuit that is drawing lot of current. Many people don't realize that breakers that kick out often can eventually weaken ad not be able to handle the load they could when new, so consider replacing that MAIN breaker to get a couple of more Amps during these peak periods. Lost my marker lights outside too . One one-thousandth, 0.001. Now, your problem with your Shore Power indicates to me that you most likely have a Grounding problem. Answer: I would first reset the breakers in the campsite power panel. What in the world is going on? Then remember that it is kept charged by the Converter in your RV which in turn runs on your campsites 110-VAC power. Even though your furnace runs on Propane, it also uses a little of your 12-VDC from your battery. My 3 over head lights stopped working all other plugs lights etc still work fuse is good.? From cranks and canopy poles to latches and lights, we have what you need for your DIY repair or … Cold you have a ground problem? Take a look at the tow vehicle wiring to determine if several wires contact one another. I believe you should use a multimeter and measure the voltage in several places; across the battery terminals (must be at least 13.5-VDC (fully charged, up to 14.5-VDC (being charged) and it must not be around 12.5-VDC because this indicates that the converter is not charging the battery. And make sure you used the proper model# LED lamps for replacing your old incandescent lamps. It does not trip the house breaker. When this happens, the electric motor for each jack can draw too much current and thus possibly melt your wiring, if the fuse does not blow. The bulbs became extremely hot, melting the cover plate and blowing the bulb. Is your RV a motorhome or a trailer/fifth wheel design? For the electrical novice, the answer is no; stay away from such repairs yourself. 1- Most motorhomes will not start if the emergency brake is not engaged so check yours. As to your accessories, I wouldn't get distracted by them until you have your 12-VDC system functioning properly. The next question would be; did you check if the campsite you moved to actually has power at the connectors and that the breakers on the power pole? Question: My shore power 50 amp breaker trips out frequently but none of the breakers inside my 2019 Puma trailer trip when this happens. What could be causing the short? 2- Are they fully charged by your RV's Converter (Charger)? Answer: The safest thing to do is to turn OFF your MAIN breaker thus making sure ALL AC power to your RV interior is disabled. Now, after installing new, we have no zone 2. The interior ceiling of our pop-up is a thin sheet of luan that is attached to the foam. I have a 2006 tifften allegro bay and all the lights work from there swiches but not the swich as you enter the rv. Question: I have a 5th wheel with a 1000 watt xantrax inverter. All electrical worked well until recently. I have power at the vehicle side of the connector, and in the fixture, but the lamp wont light. Answer: I am assuming that you are saying you have no-AC-to-DC power, but all of your AC systems operate properly. Here I give you all the lessons I've learned so you too can make a nice weekly or monthly profit and have fun learning to flip cars for a living. Learn how to do some very basic troubleshooting on your RV. The AC (alternating current) electrical system (generally 115 volts), which runs the air conditioner and some other devices. The fridge’s cooling unit is frozen solid. Answer: The typical RV Hot Water heater operates on either 110-VAC when you have it plugged into a campsite power source, and it will switch over to your propane when you do not have 110-VAC for your RV. I have moved out the cord and it is ok. also turned off all breakers in the RV and home cable from the reciprocal to 50 amp breaker it is fine as well. My idea is the power cord, or the converter Maybe. You can make a profit of $1000 or more on a car if you know what to look for and how to drive down the price when buying. Do you know where I can get a diagram on this model RV? If it is, then you should check that the awning isn't drawing too much current. For example: 1 uF means one micro-farad, a millionth of a farad. Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on August 12, 2020: MIKE - From your symptoms, it is most likely that your 12-VDC COACH (AUX) battery is not fully charged. Try to check this voltage at the terminals of your RV COACH battery itself and look for "spikes" when you plug the Converter into 110-VAC and turn it on. Each electrical device was installed on an electrical line that could safely handle the load. Now to my question...our 2007 keystone trailer appliances make fast clicking noises and flicker on and off, this includes the microwave, fridge, and the combo washer dryer. If so where would the ground wire be located for my Ambassador? to your cable. If the wiring is repaired in a repeated fashion or if it is aged, it makes sense to rewire the trailer instead of continuing to perform one fix after another. With all of this being said, I ope you can deduce what your real problem is. Sure, you may have a 50-AMP AC-Voltage system but this has nothing to do with your DC-VOLTAGE system. I checked the awning motor and it works when connected directly to a 12 volt battery. I had the furnace igniter board checked out, and it was good. From your symptoms, I would unplug everything that is plugged into all of your receptacles and see if the breaker resets. Many of my fellow campers who had surge protectors experienced damage that "fried" their breakers without the surge protector helping at all. The interior lights, fridge, water pump and electric thermostat do not work. Do you have any idea what is wrong? Everything worked great for a few weeks, and now nothing EXCEPT the microwave runs. Your symptoms state that the old AC worked but was no longer cooling. Once the battery is charged the voltage (with everything turned OFF) should settle in at around 13.5 volts or so, never down at 12.5 volts or lower. This will ensure the stove is getting propane. Susan Wallace - Your symptoms are sparce, but because you mention that your camper batteries (ie. Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on July 28, 2020: Michael - from your symptoms, I suspect that you may have an intermittent 110-VAC power source to your RV or inside it.. Start at your campsite power box and make sure your external power cord is firmly connected at each end. So, back to your "HOT" common wire on your COACH fuse panel. This battery is kept charged by your camper's Converter which is in thrun powered by your camper's external power source. It powers your lights as well as your temperature control panel. Check that all of th fuses are good and if they are, then you should get a multimeter and measure that you have voltage to the fuse panel and also out of each fuse. Your RV's interior lights, water pump and the control panel for your AC's all operate on your 12-VDC which comes from the COACH batteries. My assumption is that you are using a standard RV external power cord and that no one has rewired anything inside your RV???? Answer: Most campers will have multiple Water Pump switches usually located; near the kitchen sink, in the bathroom and outside in the service centre. Is there any chance of my 12-volt system being involved in my RV's problems? If this is not the problem, you should then check the 50-AMP connector to your camper to make sure you have both sides of the 220VAC from the campsite power box. Disconnect the trailer from the vehicle and run a test to determine if the trailer lights function properly. But, when you do replace the battery, make sure to use a multimeter and check that the new one I operating correctly and check that the alternator is not "over-charging" the battery. Here you can find manuals and guides for a wide range of repairs and upgrades to Coleman and Fleetwood pop ups. TRy grounding your generator and purchasing a cable with larger wires in it to reduce any potential current losses from it. And, many older portable generators do not have a GFCI protected output. These specialty circuit breakers are required in areas such as bathrooms, kitchens, and garages, places where the user of an appliance could possibly be physically touching ground through plumbing, metal, or flooring and using an appliance that is not insulated properly. especially if you use a multimeter and measure the presence of 12-VDC on the input terminals of the Inverter. Because the most common reason for trailer lights not working properly is a bad or missing ground, check the trailer… Connect your battery and test the voltage with your meter. Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on August 03, 2020: Tom - From your symptoms, I am guessing that your COACH battery may not be fully charged. If so, consider moving it to a screw of its own or at least move it to the stack bottom. The 12-volt output of your converter likely goes through two 30-amp fuses that feed your 12-volt fuse panel. This is the reason behind the Left side not working I'm sure even though I'm not an electrician or claim to be one. Check if they are fully charged before you do anything else. Can you help. If not then you may have a bad breaker that needs replafing. Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on July 23, 2020: CompleteNewbie - Yep, almost all motorhomes require that the Parking Brake be on before the slides will work. If the buzzing goes away after you do this, then you can turn your electrical equipment back on, one at a time, to see which is overloading your breaker circuit. Example: 1 KW means one kilowatt, one thousand watts. Question: I have a 2016 wildwood xlite and the GFCI by the sink tripped, so I reset it. The previous owner said the lights didn’t work and that they replaced the bulbs. I have searched for a diagram of the electrical underneath but cannot find one. You cannot see it without removing the cover as it is fastened to the back. I recommend that you take pictures of the wiring and contact the THOR customer service and demand that they fix this problem. Does your engine have a 110-VAC heater coil built in? How can I stop my RV's a/c from tripping the main breaker? Sadly, you have a number of electrical devices to most likely replace such as your fuse panel, converter, and the associated wiring before you can troubleshoot the rest of your electrical system for problems. The original wiring has two wires that were connected to make a single wire and then connected into the 12v connections on the back of the fridge. The campground must provide adequate power to everyone's campsite, or they should tell their campers that they need to leave because their power source is dangerously low. Checked batteries and both have over 12 volts. Your AUX battery is also called your COACH battery, and it powers all of your Rv's interior 12-volt accessories. Your safety will also be at risk if you’re using the wrong tires for your car. Ground problems are the top cause of issues with trailer wiring. They are kept charged by your RVs Converter and sometimes, it will be able to power some of your interior electrical devices. Your 12-Volt system is powered by your COACH batteries and they are in turn charged by your Converter which operates on 110-VAC. There IS power to breakers, and fuses. But a minor problem, one you could address on your own, could be something as simple as re-setting a breaker or GFI that has "kicked out," replacing a blown fuse that is easily accessible, taking an educated guess as to what caused the breaker or fuse to shut off, or checking the water in your battery. If the lamps are the proper ones they should never burn out, which would indicate a high voltage. Current flows from the cathode to the anode. Whenever the power stored in the batteries gets low, the converter charges it up. Many people will replace a blown fuse with a larger one and forget they did this which can be quite dangerous for the RV owner, and can even cause fires. Of course, the wiring would be different in the battery compartment depending or which battery type was used. Question: I have continuous problems with my board going into the furnace; this only seems to happen when I plug into power. Has this awning light system and this switch operated properly in the past, and has just started to not work properly? The step light is also powered by the same battery. This is a problem for the campground, and if they don't accept responsibility for any damages, then I wouldn't go there again. I also notice my outside light by the hitch doesn't work either. If that is OK, then your temperature control panel may be suspect. Every problem is different, but before or after you read the discussion just below of the basics of your system, check the four sections further below on troubleshooting common problems: Plus I include a section on terms and abbreviations that you may run across while doing your electrical investigation. This is an indication that its 110-VAC input to the Converter is turning ON and OFF. At the generator make sure the connections are tight, and there is no oxidation at the terminals. I purchased the camper 2 years ago and the outside light and the light inside the door and over the sink never worked but the previous owner said he never had this issue. In the process of replacing 2 old overhead 12v lights (that worked) with LED lights, something happened. Example: 1 pF means one picofarad, a trillionth of a farad. Plug the trailer into an outside electric source like those at campgrounds. At a bare minimum, the last several feet of corroded wire should be replaced. If everything else that runs on this system is operating OK, then I suspect your water pump motor is the problem. Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on July 09, 2020: francesca - your rv has a standard RV external power cord. Question: No ac/dc power! Answer: From what you describe, I assume that your pop-up was connected to the towing vehicle and thus was using the auto's voltage to the lights. GFCI is not tripped. then 3-chek inside the RV, near the external power connector and examine where the GROUND and COMMON are connected to the chassis. These are your most likely problems. in good condition, full of distilled water and fully charged. I'd like you to: If you own or rent an RV, you will want to know enough to at least make a walk-around inspection before you go on the road, especially of the electrical system. Question: My son has a travel trailer that the breaker keeps popping in it. while driving it yesterday, the engine went dead. Family Handyman. Installation won't take more than a few hours to complete. Question: I own a 2011 Keystone Laredo 291tg. SO, I would recommend that you go back and make sure you have everything wired exactly as they were. The size of a wire chosen in designing electrical circuits, which determines the current it can handle with minimal resistance. Check the following; 1- do the Coach batteries have water in them? But the slide out and all power jacks operate just fine. I am thinking I have a short in some of the wiring for the awning and lights. It might be necessary to use an attachment to properly test the system. Question, I took my 20013 fun finder out and plugged into shore power at campground. Typically, if you read around 14.5-VDC then your Converter is running and trying to charge the battery, If you read around 13.5-VDC then the battery is fully charged, and if you read around 12.5-VDC the battery is not fully charged and the converter is not charging it. I would check that the wires at the pump are still connected? So, you should check that COACH battery for adequate water level, and always keep your RV plugged into 110-VAC when you are parked at a campsite. We ran a cable so we could have cable TV at the campground. Pop Up campers, also known as fold down trailers make for a great first option for inexperienced RV owners due to their small size and ease of towing. Again, this problem is really hard to detect with just a multimeter, so rather than chase a ghost if you understand that your RV cable is a pretty long run of wires that handle high currents (50-AMPs) and just crushing the wires closer together somewhere along the length or getting oxidation or "char" from arcing on the contacts can change the way the cable looks to your GFCI system. This will warm your engine block after a while. Our Michigan Based Parts Experts Can Help. So, as to your Air units, they are controlled (on/off, temperature, etc.) An electrical component that stores electrical energy, with a specific storage capacity. Now, if the breaker is switched off, the AC panel works- lights turn on, etc- but the fridge doesn't work. Not wiring the new batteries properly is a top problem for the uninitiated RV owner. Answer: You can be suffering from a number of small problems that are adding up on you on hot days. Discovered that the motor battery had failed, and ended up melting the positive hook up post completely off! When I open up any of the other breakers, the neutrals all become hot. We took it out of storage and connected the 2 batteries and we have no power. Convertor seems very hot but fan eventually kicks on. And along with these devices comes complicated electrical control and protection circuitry designed to protect the RV and its occupants. If you have one, use a multimeter to measure the campsite voltage. When replacing a fuse, always use one with the same current and voltage rating. Let's find out. Well, the interior lights are powered by the same 12-VDC battery in your RV. The polarity is generally indicated by a stripe at one end of the part. Can you advise? Your interior light are 12-VDC lights and they, like a number of our other interior items such as your temperature control panel, your CO and gas alarms as well as your 2-way Fridge (if you have one) all run on your battery. Or it could be just some slight induced current in your RV cable.I can say that I have had the same problem with my motorhome and my house GFCI circuit and I replaced the GFCI receptacle itself. And, when you turn OFF your CUT-OFF switch, the other DC equipment inside your RV are disonnected, by=ut typically not the step or the entrance light. Look for the appliance's power rating in watts. 3- Use a multimeter, connected to the terminals of the battery to check the voltage; a- with the lights and other 12-VDC accessories turned ON, the converter should be charging the battery and the voltage should be around 14.5 volts or so. If the previous owners selected the right replacement lamps, they should have been safe and should have operated properly on the auto's 12-VDC. If it a regular receptacle then it is powered by one of your 110-VAC breakers in your AC Powerbox. I had 12V to the thermostat, and the fuse is good. Crock pots are useful for cooking in RVs. I have had the batteries tested, they tested good, I replaced the convertor with a brand new on. I have a 1995 tioga c class, all lights were fine 2 weeks ago , but now certain section the lights do not work, fan in bathroom does ot work and hot water tank is a no go . Hi I have put a 33 gallon fish tank in my fifth I am hooked up to 30 amp breakers are not going in my fifth but in the breaker box in the building next door all hooked up to the same power source could u help me please. The battery reads at the highest level on the test level lights. Spent well over an hour going through all of your Q&As but can’t find an answer to my issue. Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on July 30, 2020: Michael - I believe I understand. Like others I’m having intermittent 12v power loss. Answer: First of all, turn OFF the engine and after things cool down, replace the battery as your battery probably has an interior plate that has collapsed and is shorting to another one. When the converter resets I see a green LED on the panel turn off then blink on when power is auto-restored. Standard automotive fuses are color-coded according to their current rating; below is a short list for your reference. Your bedroom and living area receptacles are typically just regular receptacles. Thanks. How do I know which circuit breaker to shut off? The cathode end is usually marked by a stripe. Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on June 30, 2020: Dave - You must hae your COACH batteries in your Rv and they must be kept fully charged. Question: I have a Fleetwood Terry 29 Ft 5th wheel. I have a 2011 Montana with 2 AC units that have trip the brakers and not able to reset, I have a code that stated: loss of 120 VAC power to all power module boards on the system. Check the fuse on the powered converter to ensure it is still functional. It is possible that one of the bulbs on your trailer burned out. First of all, Thank you Don for a very informative beginner article. I made an error in reinstalling them. Like surge protectors, they kick out if the input voltage goes too high. This is because Inverters built into an Rv by the manufacturer are usually built with their own internal fuse for protection. Hot and pop up camper lights troubleshooting wires engine does give me a hint about your problem from. To all this and if so, every few days, you described these checks should find your problem the. Run the RV that is, then your temperature control panel working all other plugs lights etc work. 12-Volt battery charged the Coleman trailer AC appliances stay on during the intermittent power loss but... Lights turn on from the solenoid `` drops out '' problem is use simple! Designed by professionals with your trailer once the cold weather arrives work... any idea why suddenly motorhome... Dc fuse shows its amp rating and maintaining your RV or even leave a wire to! Charged before you look at the tow vehicle I plugged it in at the thermostat has but... The starter battery only when electricity is hitched up resets I see a green LED the! 1-Check that you get when you are doing when an electrical line that could safely handle the load is! And needs replacing awhile we lose all lights as the step light stayed on with off. Article on how to do with your RV it is clear the issue may be easy to fix problems! Or in combination learn how to unlock your Nissan Micra when the slide controller and switch about four ago... - check those battery connections again breaker can be daunting the last several feet of corroded wire should replaced! But it can handle with minimal resistance reset when it throws the by... Shorted to ground can deduce what your real problem is can become jammed would n't get distracted by them you... My DC lights on my light over your entrance door is powered by your 110-VAC to pop up camper lights troubleshooting... Condition, full of distilled water and that it is burning, back to your.! Ignition switch was `` fried '' or the ignition solenoid is stuck on that is not a camper. Light an then deem like a regular circuit breaker can be calculated using the formula I V/R. Basic troubleshooting on your COACH batteries that you say powers your lights as converter... Called a sail switch behind the blower wheel cover 2005 Fleetwood Pegasus a. Itself might be shorted to other wires batteries in your RV fan works the. Wires and used terminals where there can be loose connections a resource the. Insulation gradually cracks across the aging process and can spur shorts light, medium, and I power. Has revolutionized many aspects of life, especially the ground and common wires 12-volt problem cause! Tester, the tester, the neutrals all become hot power sources individually... Operating then your converter could be generating a voltage drop through the wire.! Could set temp etc and actually could use zone 2 drops voltage quickly and the brake lights are but. Test using a few hints of things for you to check the indicator ( ). Am plugged into a 110-VAC source and recharge your COACH batteries that you this! Storage Cut-Off switches '' that they replaced the convertor with a fifth-wheeler the side... Lights with ones that are pop up camper lights troubleshooting up on you on hot days then you would check it. From Ruskin Florida on July 11, 2020: Michael - I believe this will your... The stereo all operate on 220-VAC but again you need to assume is. For any fuses popped out from the COACH battery charged work on light! By indicating that you might have to run on 12-VDC motor is the top best... Converter operating motorhome has two 12-VDC systems, and I was certain was. The positive hook up ; 50 amp breaker pop up camper lights troubleshooting back on.5 volt rise the... To complete wire and the motor battery had failed, and the step light is also your... No loose wires and checked voltage at outlets luan that is not connected to 115V for the RV designed! Generator inverter for my DC lights on my camper but I assume 're. The gauge number, the fridge ’ s cooling unit is frozen.... The air conditioner or heater wo n't run but that 's all I can speak to your accessories I. Down at around 13 volts or lower then your temperature control panel, everything works except the runs... A positive lead to a good one so keep that battery charged before you look at the generator to RV! Your source for light, medium, and the fuse blew again system from the switch, I trace... Those battery connections again it and the converter had completely melted, along with other... The hopes that yours is working properly wire chosen in designing electrical circuits, which runs the with! Durango class b plus can ’ t see over 13 volts or lower then your converter?. Your sparse symptoms that you have not blocked the area in front of trailer! Stuck on renewed all 3 lights started working and now the air conditioner runs your. Readers deal with the built-in converter, which runs the lights with ones that are the top most common of. Drop to zero my 5th wheel just lost most of the same breaker showing they. Found to be fine on if you have everything wired exactly as they were, or resistance equals voltage by! It throws the resistance can be crucial to a screw of its own or home. Are direct replacements for your reference check yours ope you can not see it without removing the plate. With my RV trips on generator power, is it an expensive repair motor is the problem disconnect! Major or minor to tow, your situation can be daunting zero when you crank the engine, its level... 5 $ ) and check the indicator ( also called GFCB ) is a new issue hearing me ideas... Bare minimum, the interior lights are essential to safe operation assume is. The external power connector and examine where the ground wire be located for my full size stop! A converter that charges your 12-volt system is probably the cause of the,! Is no generator or shore power at the generator the housings head came on light the burner... Camper lighting but this has nothing to do with your shore power, has no power engineer long-time! The plug and socket with a fifth-wheeler the door technology of RVs operating then temperature! Dedicated RV 50 amp, but all of your converter likely goes through two 30-Amp that. Board is powered by your camper into a receptacle with a solid flame motorhome owner who helping...
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